Seafood Business Locked in the Throes of Winter

Here's an insight to what is going on with our native striped bass, aka rockfish, during these cold winter months.  Tim Sughrue posted this and I thought it would be an interesting read for those of you who look at those frozen waters and wonder what's going on underneath.  Tim is a fisheries scientist and works for Congressional Seafood.  

"I drove across the Bay Bridge last Thursday on my way to the fish market, as I have every

day for the last 30 years, and saw a sight I have only seen once in my life, in 1977. The Bay was completely frozen all the way across (Kent Island to Annapolis-5 miles) and as far north as you could see. From the top of the bridge, I could see Pooles Island off the mouth of the Middle River, 20 miles to the north, and the Bay was a huge sheet of continuous white ice all the way up. From there, it is another 20 miles to the top of the Bay at Havre De Grace, where the Susquehanna comes in, the water is fresher (less salt) and the Bay is narrower, lending itself to freezing across more readily. So last Thursday morning, when my truck thermometer said 1 below zero, 20 percent of the largest estuary in the US, the Chesapeake Bay, was frozen all the way across for 40 miles. It was quite a sight.

Cold winters are not all bad. Historically, they have been quite good for rockfish reproduction in the spring. The ice and snow hold back the nutrient runoff. The water temperatures are lower, delaying the first algal blooms until mid-March, exactly when the fish are spawning. Algae, phytoplankton and zooplankton are the primary food source for the rockfish larvae, the life cycle stage between egg and fingerling. The increased food supply for the rockfish larvae results in a higher survivability for that stage, and a much larger year class of fingerling rockfish. God knows we need one. We have had only one dominant year class in the last decade, 2011. The population of the adult jumbo rockfish (migratory) has plummeted. Our resident population in the bay is doing fine. Fishing, both recreational and commercial, should be excellent this summer as the 2011-year class will be of legal size (18 inches). You can expect the federal overseer of the striped bass fishery, Atlantic States Marine Fisheries Council, to drastically change how the coastal states (Massachusetts to North Carolina) fish for adult striped bass in their waters.

The ice on the Chesapeake Bay makes it extremely difficult for the watermen to get out and work. For the ones who are able to break out, it is also very dangerous. The force generated by large sheets of ice, moving with tide and wind, can bend wheels, break struts, and even crush hulls. Working on the water in the winter is not for the inexperienced.

For the watermen participating in the drift gill net rockfish IFQ now, ice on the Bay means the rock are easier to catch. For the ones who are able to get out, the rockfish are lethargic, and sitting in tight schools right on the bottom. The fishermen find the schools of rock deep in the channel on their depth finders, lay off their nets at the end of a tide, when the water slows. Drift nets only fish the bottom 10 feet of the water column. So if the fish are in 100 feet of water, as they frequently are this time of year, the net only catches fish if they are very close (90-100) to the bottom. Fish have a natural defense against nets. It is called their lateral line system. This is a line you can see that goes right down the middle of the fish lengthwise.  The lateral line has hair follicles in pores that sense changes in the current ahead of the fish. This system allows fish to catch prey and navigate even when they cannot see. But at the end of the tide, there is little current movement and the fish are vulnerable to the nets. When the tide is “running”, the fish can “feel” the change in the current ahead of them and simply swim around or up and over the net. Fishing with a gill net is much like hook and line, if the conditions aren’t right, you are not going to catch much."

Halibut Quota

For you halibut fans out there, this year's Pacific season will be a mixed bag.  Many feared that quota cuts were going to take the total allowable catch (TAC) below 25 million pounds, a number that would really put a strain on supply and raise prices dramatically.  The good news is that this did not happen as the TAC is above 27 million pounds.  The bad news is that this number is still down 11% from last year's quota.  That means that you shouldn't sweat whether or not halibut will be available fresh for us living on the East Coast, but you most likely won't be paying any less for quality product this year.  There have been quota cuts on Pacific halibut for several years in a row now as the management council continues to strive to reach equilibrium between fish being harvested and big fish remaining in the water.  These cuts raise prices at the cash register, but are necessary to protect the resource and ensure that the species has an opportunity flourish.
 

Lobster Prices; What To Expect

Valentine's Day is just around the corner and, for most of you sweethearts out there, that means you begin the search for that special seafood item that embodies the American love story; live, cold water lobster.  Many of you will take your date out for fine dining and be served delicious course after course, though often in rapid fire, as this time of the year is one of the busiest for all restaurant establishments.  Couple that with the fact that this year V-day is on a Friday, and you have the perfect recipe for over-crowded tables and maddening wait lists.  Some of you, though, being the hopeless romantics of the world, will opt for a private dinner at home, just you and your mate and that special third party: the live lobster.

So here's an update to all you cupids out there, whether you are dining in or risking life and limb and dining out, on just what to expect when the bill comes after you order that crustacean sensation.  This time of year is rough for Maine fishermen.  When water temperatures are very low lobsters are lethargic and move about as much.  Unfortunately, when they stay in one place that makes them very difficult to catch.  It's also impossible to harvest them when the water is frozen over, so pray for warmer temperatures the week before February 14th or else we could be buying Northeast Canadian lobsters.

Canada right now is mostly producing lobsters that have been pounded, which means lobsters are previously caught and then placed in cages out at sea.  Orders are taken and then filled with previously caught lobsters and as inventory goes, so goes down, the price goes straight up.  Canada also sells a significant amount of product to Europe and China and with the rising middle class in China willing to pay more for lobsters, our prices here in the U.S. will rise accordingly.

Couple these facts with our current bad weather and we could be looking at some very high lobster prices, especially for hard shelled lobsters.  Hard shells produce the most meat and offer the briny-sweet flavor we have come to expect from cold water lobster.  None of this is new though, as Valentine's Day historically is when lobster prices are at their highest for the year.  Show me the love meets show me the money.  It usually is more affordable to bring your lobster home alive and prepare that special meal for your mate.  So, since lobster prices look to be on the rise this next month, I encourage all of you to tap your inner Yankee, grab some lobster bibs and take the plunge at home.  Cooking lobster at home is very easy, very tasty, and makes for a great love story.    

Pacific Salmon Company Tests Radiation Rumors

I have recently fielded more questions than usual about whether or not there have been any increased or dangerous radiation levels detected in fish harvested from our West Coast.  My answer has been and remains the same: no danger has been reported and proven with consuming seafood from our domestic West Coast fisheries.  There have been no substantiated reports proving that seafood from this area is contaminated or a risk.

There has been a recent rash of Internet rumors surfacing that fallout from the Fukushima disaster has made seafood harvested from our West Coast unsafe to consume due to high radiation levels.  The scaremongering taking place has prompted one Pacific seafood company to take action.  Loki Fish Co., of Seattle, WA recently sent wild salmon samples from five different salmon species harvested in Washington and Alaska to Eurofins Analytical Laboratories.  The laboratory tested seven samples for radiation, finding that five samples were free of any elements and two samples were found to have trace elements - though at levels well below the guidelines the FDA has set.  You can read more HERE.

The Internet is as dangerous as it is useful.  You can find an article to defend just about anything you want to believe in.  My recommendation is to check sources and only visit accredited sites you are familiar with, such as NOAA and Monterey Bay Aquarium.  Keep in mind that current scientific research is telling us that you are doing more harm to your body by Not consuming seafood than you are by consuming it.  This just in: domestic seafood is not only a safe choice of protein, but one of the healthiest you will find at the market.

Best Bets for Your Holiday Menu

Inevitably every year BlackSalt customers plan holiday menus only to find out two days prior that particular seafood items are not available. This year will be no exception I'm sure, but the evolving availability is starting to become a little clearer. The variety of species available for Christmas is usually not too bad, as many boats will bring their catch to the market the week prior to December 25. However, very few boats stay out fishing through Christmas and even fewer go fishing in the week prior to New Years. Throw in the possibility of a three day 40-50 mph Nor'easter, and you have a recipe for a potential disaster. The following is a list of our recommendations for the upcoming weeks along with the percentage odds of their availability based on the Market Watch by Tim Sughrue at Congressional Seafood.

HIGHEST RISK OF UNAVAILABILITY — 50/50

FRESH NOVA SCOTIA HALIBUT • Our first shipment of fresh halibut in a week will arrive on Tuesday (12/10) -- weather and fishermen participation will determine how much if any halibut is available for the Holidays. The small boats are all attempting to lobster, and the bigger trip boats (10-14 day trips) should unload prior to Christmas. The odds are poor that halibut will be available for New Years.  If you are planning on having halibut at your dinner table over the holidays be prepared to stomach some lofty prices, especially for high quality product.

FRESH DANISH DOVER SOLE • This is a very unique item and if the weather in Denmark cooperates, we should be able to supply fresh Dover sole for the holidays. These fish are so fresh that they are still in rigor and look like you caught them yourself.

FRESH CRAB MEAT • Domestic crabmeat is not something you can count on this time of year. Crabs hibernate during the winter and that makes catching and picking them slightly difficult, even down south in the Gulf of Mexico.  Crabmeat will be day to day throughout the holidays, but we will try to source some Jonah crabmeat from Maine.

MODERATE RISK OF UNAVAILABILITY — 70/30

WILD ROCKFISH • It has been a very strange year for rockfish. Prices are at all time highs. Maryland will have a short gill net season this week but that will not help us for the holidays. Virginia will be our only source and the fish have not shown up in any numbers yet, hence whole fish are currently fetching all time highs for this time of year. Will the fish show up? One would have to say yes, but even if they do, few fishermen have tags left to fill.

LOCAL FLOUNDER - FLUKE • This great local fish should have been a sure bet for any holiday menu but Virginia and North Carolina opened their trawl seasons at virtually the same time. Virginia has caught their quota and North Carolina will be done this week. That means fish will be affordable for this week and then skyrocket next week   This is poor planning by the ASMFC. The only state open from Dec 16 through the 31st is Rhode Island and everyone will be begging for those fish. On January 1 New Jersey opens their fluke season just in time for… well its evident this opening coms a little late to the game.  Prices will increase at least 50% from their current levels and there may not be enough fluke to supply all needs. Stay tuned  This situation could change

LOW RISK OF UNAVAILABILITY — 90/10

DOMESTIC GENUINE AMERICAN REDS • This is an excellent choice for any holiday menu. Barring any gigantic storm in the Gulf, there should be plenty of fish for Christmas and New Years. We will also have smaller snapper if you want to serve a whole fish.

COSTA RICAN MAHI • Mahi season is full on right now in Central America.  Landings are high and prices are low. No issue with supply

LIVE CANADIAN HARDSHELL LOBSTERS • The season in Cape Bretton Nova Scotia opened a week ago. The weather has disrupted fishing for several days already. Landings have been light and prices are inching upward. The catch in Maine is holding prices somewhat in check for now. Live lobster is always a popular choice for holiday menus and this year should be no exception. A large percentage of the Canadian catch is bigger lobsters (2-3's and larger). These lobsters are full of meat and very hardy, able to live several days out of water.

SWORD & TUNA • Both of these species will be an excellent choice for holiday menus. The full moon will occur just before Christmas when local swordfish bite the best. Our tuna sourcing is consistent and very extensive, such that supply should not be an issue.

ICELANDIC COD • We have had great success with offering high quality Icelandic whole cod and large cod loins.  Availability should be okay absent any major storms off Iceland. We also get wolf fish with these shipments, so if you are interested in that item please call ahead.

OTHER WILD SPECIES • There should not be any issues with fish like monk, skate, and dry sea scallops. Scallops will be available but very pricey due to closures.  Species like Bronzino and Dorade are farmed, so unless the planes from Turkey and Greece break down, we will have plenty. Other available farmed staples include rainbow trout, tilapia, and char. 

SALMON • We have farmed salmon available this time of year.  Our brands include Skuna Bay craft raised salmon and True North salmon.  Both companies produce high quality, antibiotic and hormone free Atlantic salmon.  Prices on these items should remain stable and product should be readily available.

SHRIMP • All shrimp proteins are overvalued right now, but we still have a full line of products in stock ranging from big head-on shrimp from Madagascar to all sizes of wild Texas Gulf brown shrimp. We should also have some fresh, never frozen, chemical-free Gulf white shrimp for the holidays from NC.

Nantucket Bay Scallops Are Back

Mr. Steve Bender is at it again, sending us Nantucket's freshest bay scallops.  We buy our scallops from him because he searches the island over to find the largest and sweetest scallops available.  The season opened November 1st and we should see a steady flow of beautiful bay scallops until the weather gets too far below freezing and the industry is shut down.  Nantucket's are known to be the sweetest scallops available and are very seasonal.  Prices this year have started out about average, but high winds have kept supply limited.  Here is a link to more information about Nantucket Bay Scallops.

What's Up With The Stones?

Where have all the stones gone? No, I'm not referring to that great rock band, I'm talking about those delicious Florida stone crab claws that we get each year from October and through the winter.  It seems as though Mick and the gang have been much more visible this past month than his crab counterparts.  Many of you are wondering what the story is and I can't blame you.

Here it is: At the beginning of this season the crabbers actually went on strike due to low prices.  Joe's Crab Shack of Florida fame buys so many claws every year that they are actually the ones who set the price at the docks.  This year the crabbers were not too happy with initial pricing, but eventually an agreement was made and they have since gotten back to work.  However, good weather for us is bad weather for crabbing.  The industry usually booms after a big storm, but there haven't been any of those recently.  Couple that with incidences of red tide and all of a sudden we have a scarcity in the market.  Right now claws are hard to come by outside the walls of Joe's and the state of Florida.  Crabs are on the move and we just can't seem to catch them.  It's sounds counterintuitive, but hopefully we'll soon see some storms.  If not, there won't be many claws to go around, and if you do find some, the price tag could cause serious sticker shock.