What's Happening In The Market

It's been a while since I gave a good ole' fashion market update.  I am not sure if you have noticed, but there's a lot going on out there underneath the surface.  The weather is getting right, right for the bite as you could say, and seasons are now crossing over.  With so many options hitting their stride, I figured now was as good as time as any to let you in on what's "in."

The salmon situation is hot, hot, hot.  Kings are coming down in price while sockeye landings are just beginning to come around.  For a few weeks it was only Copper River Sockeyes and the prices, as usual, started off in the upper stratosphere.  Now that the initial gouge is over and other areas begin to open, sockeye prices are coming back down to earthly understanding.  Red kings are flowing out of the rivers, so finding quality fish should not be hard.

An added bonus this year is that ivory king salmon have been readily available for at least for the past two weeks.  These special salmon are deliciously different in flavor, more complex and less "salmony" than other kings.  Last year you couldn't find an ivory.  This year we are having much better luck, making you a very lucky consumer.

Rockfish season is officially open in MD.  Good fish are being landed in the 2-4 lb and 5-8 lb ranges.  Prices should be steady as there was a quota cut this year to protect the stocks, but relief will come as other northern states begin to open their seasons throughout the summer.  This local favorite should be a good buy for the rest of the summer.

Fresh shrimp, especially royal reds from Connecticut, will be available during the summer months.  Fresh white shrimp will be coming out of the Carolinas.  These shrimp tend to be soft, yet crunchy, with a good natural flavor. The royal reds are on another level of sweetness and shouldn't be missed.

Scallop season in Ocean City is going to last at least a few more days, so if you are a connoisseur of everything local, you're summer will not be complete without at least one meal made entirely of these special bi-viavles.  While the Ocean City scallop season is sadly fading, other summer scallop areas are blossoming with beautiful product.  New Jersey, Rhode Island, and Massachusetts scallops are all on the market and can be found fresh, untreated, if you are in the right market.  Be sure to make friends with your local fishmonger and get the best out of your scallops.

We've got crabs.  At least that's what they are saying in MD right now.  Even though flavor won't peak until the crabs fatten in the fall - and who wants to wait for that - domestic crabmeat and soft-shell crabs are plentiful.  You can find fresh domestic crabmeat from MD, VA, FL, LA and AL this time of year.  Though soft shell availability will wax and wane with the full moon and weather, expect them to be around.  Hard-shells you are best waiting on in order to get the fattest crabs, but again, who wants to do that.

Domestic mahi are running at the moment from FL to NC and quality is at its finest.  You can find freshly caught mahi, skin still iridescent and shining with bright red bloodlines resting in cold showcases at prices way below what their quality commands.

West Coast halibut is in full swing, prices are stable and product is great, especially from day-boat operations.  Not all halibut is created equal, and often higher prices will reflect the properly handled, short trip fish.  Fresh sable is also available, and Sitka Sound wild caught fish are the biggest and best.  During the season it's worth it to pay more for non-frozen fish.

So many seasons are crossing over, there is so much more to report, but in deference to time and attention constraints, here's a short list of other items: golden and grey tilefish from the Carolinas up to Massachusetts are great tasting and great buys.  Our northern neighbors are also producing high quality tautog, tuna, swordfish, Boston mackerel, skate, monkfish, and blue fish.  It's always a sign of summer to come when the blues start showing up.  Also be on the lookout for fresh New Zealand oysters and clams.  It's winter there, so product is actually better during our summer.  All other shellfish besides triploid oysters beware; summer is a time of love, and for shellfish that means spawning.  I recommend buying shellfish the same day you are going to use it to avoid loss.  I almost forgot, lobsters are coming back around.  The Canadian season just opened and prices are going to start coming down immediately.

Some seasons there is just too much going on to get it all in one report.  If I were you I would get off the computer and get to the market.  Everything is aligning right now.  Seasons change, fish are on the move, and next week could be too late.

Shrimp Royalty From An Unlikely Place

When you think of U.S. wild caught shrimp, I am willing to bet your mind first takes you to the Gulf States, such as Florida, Louisiana, Alabama, and Texas.  Or it could be that you are from the West Coast, so you think of Oregon or Washington.  If you are really into seafood, or just happen to own some real estate there, Maine, North Carolina, South Carolina, and Georgia might come to mind.  But how many of you, especially those living outside of Mystic, think of Connecticut as your go-to shrimp locale?  Well, starting this week, D.C. natives might need to start re-thinking where they believe great shrimp are caught.

In my opinion, Connecticut royal red shrimp, also known as Stonington Reds, may be one of the best kept seafood secrets of the last few years.  Unbeknownst to us living in the district, locals in Stonington, CT have been enjoying these gorgeous shrimp for over a decade.  Can't really blame them for not spreading the word though, as it's easy to imagine why they would want to keep such a delicious secret all to themselves.

Species-wise, royal red shrimp are not exactly new to our market.  These kind of shrimp are found throughout the Gulf of Mexico, where our previous shipments have come from, and along the Atlantic Coast from Cape Cod, MA to French Guiana in South America.  Traditionally, we have received frozen-at-sea product from Florida, which is delicious in its own right and creates quite a stir when available.  The royal red shrimp fishery began off the coast of Florida in 1962 and, until this point in time, the only royal reds available in the D.C. area were caught in this fishery and shipped frozen.  However, we are now able to source fresh, never frozen product.  Combine that with the fact that they are coming from Connecticut and the season could last as long as 4-6 months, now that's something to tell your friends about.

Royal red shrimp are found in deep, extremely deep waters with depths ranging from 1,000 to 3,000 feet.  In Florida, you will find royal reds hiding in the dark expanse off of the Continental Shelf, and just like the royal reds from Florida, Connecticut reds are no different.  To harvest Connecticut reds fishermen must haul 12 hours and over a hundred miles to reach the Continental Shelf, where the shrimp can be harvested.  The fishery is a very small one.  Actually, as of 2007 only one boat, The Neptune, bothered fishing for the royal reds out of Stonington, CT.  That's fine by many, as the dearth of fishermen targeting these delicacies keeps them sustainable and primarily local.

The first thing you notice that is different about royal reds is their color.  Most shrimp do not turn an eye-pleasing red color until you cook them, but royal reds are true to their name in the fact that they are a flaming dahlia even before hitting a hot pan.  But you don't taste color, you taste flavor, and that is really where royal reds separate themselves from every other shrimp.  Royal reds are rich, almost like candied shellfish butter.  Think lobster sweetness, without the dense texture, with a succulent, yet crisp finish.  They are more delicate than the typical Gulf shrimp, so be evenhanded when cooking them, paying much attention not to overcook, as this can easily happen.  They don't need much in the way of seasoning, a little butter, salt, and pepper will go a long way.  If you are poaching them, be quick with it and don't leave them on too long.

Fresh shrimp are difficult to get to market because shrimp tend to spoil faster than fish, and most other seafood for that matter.  Shrimp harvested in the depths off of a Continental Shelf are even harder to get fresh.  This fact, coupled with their remarkable flavor, makes getting these fresh Connecticut reds even more special.  Right now there are many of the uninitiated walking the hot streets of Washington D.C., dinning on inferior seafood.  With the help of some good people from the north, and a little duplicity, we can enjoy some of the best shrimp available, while ensuring that a secret remains a secret.

 

Mahi Are Back

The Mahi Mahi are coming, so get ready.  It’s that time of year again when these beautiful, brightly colored, migratory fish make their long journey from the already hot waters of South America to the cooler, more comfortable climes off the coast of our southern and mid-Atlantic states.  The fishermen are gearing up and for a few weeks we will see some of the freshest, tastiest Mahi Mahi available. 

I understand it’s easy to get lost in the shadows of popular, seasonal powerhouses such as wild salmon and halibut, but this East Coast specialty should not be overlooked, especially considering the savings it gives at the register.  Right now the bite is on, specifically off the coast of North Carolina in areas such as Cape Hatteras and Oregon Inlet.  Fishermen there are landing Mahi caught with rod and reel, day-boat operations, ensuring that fish make it to market not only fresh, but also well handled.  We all benefit from fishing operations such as these.  The fish come to market just hours out of the water and are sustainably managed to boot.

Mahi means “strong” in Hawaiian, which is very appropriate since they are incredible swimmers with the ability to make trips that are thousands of miles long.  Each summer for a short window they migrate to our East Coast waters to spawn.  Mahi are a very fecund species, reaching sexual maturity after only a few months and then spawn several times every few weeks after that.  This enables the species to thrive even under intense fishing pressure. 

Mahi meat is firm with large flakes, having a texture similar to that of chicken thighs.  Bite in and you’ll experience a succulent mouth feel, moist, with citrus notes like that of clementine, but starchy.  With the fish coming in this fresh, you can use the fillets for ceviche or crudo.  The meatiness of the fillets make Mahi perfect for these applications.  It also performs great on the grill and can hold up to savory or sweet marinades.

Don’t wait too long to get your Mahi on, though, as the season usually ends abruptly, most often so quickly that it feels like the fish headed for deeper water overnight.  Expect the fish to be around for a couple more weeks, but after that it’s over until the fall.  One more thing: Mahi have also gone by the name “dolphin fish.”  Have no worry though, you can eat in good conscience: they’re all fish and not a bit dolphin.

Maryland: Crab Cakes And Football...And Scallops?

If you are from the MD area, the name Ocean City conjures up images of sandy beaches, cold beverages, and probably some hazy memories of youthful stupor.  It most likely doesn't at all say fresh, gourmet scallops, but since you are probably past the age of overindulging in the nectar of the gods, it might be time you looked to the local summer stomping ground as the source of your next great meal.  For a short time during the next month, some of the freshest, finest quality scallops will be coming out of Ocean City Maryland.

Okay, so the scallops are not harvested from beaches of bathing beauties with rigs working between boogie boarders and popsicle vendors, but they are harvested pretty close.  These local bivalves are actually wild harvested in an area called "Elephant's Trunk" which is located 45 miles due east of Ocean City.  Catching them is up to Captain Derrick of the 45 foot fishing vessel "Second To None".  To accomplish this he drags a 12 foot turtle dredge on the sea floor in water that is about 200 to 300 feet deep.  He does this for about 30 minutes, then dumps his load on board and shucks and ices the product right away.  Each scallop is plump and meaty and there are about 13 shucked scallops in a pound.  He may do another one or two 30 minute run before he is done for the day.  The scallops are unloaded in West Ocean City, MD and make it to the market less than 24 hours out of the water.  If you are still doing the math, that's fresh, dry scallops on your plate in less than 36 hours.  I am not sure you could catch them yourself and have them ready for dinner in that amount of time.

These scallops will be one of the freshest local ingredients you will get your hands on this summer.  They are unadulterated, completely dry, completely fresh and are some of the sweetest meats you will ever taste out of the ocean.  As with all good things, though, these scallops will be limited.  The season is set by quota and each vessel can only harvest 600 lbs a trip.  Most likely the total quota will be met by the end of this month or early June.  If you are at a restaurant and they are offered on the menu, order them.  You might be surprised by what's been hiding in plain sight.  You think you know a place like Ocean City, and then you find out that, behind all the heart stopping fried baskets and soggy hotdogs, a very delicious resource has gone ignored.  Well, at least, unheralded.  Maryland does crab like no one else, and if you didn't know now you do, scallops too.

Lobster Prices

I want to remind everyone to call their mother this Sunday, as if you didn't remember, it's Mother's Day once again.  Mother's Day in the seafood industry means a lot of lobster sales.  For some reason moms love the delicious crustacean.  Maybe it's the sweet, buttery meat.  Maybe it's because lobster has become so popular that pricing has made this hot item a special occasion food.  Either way, I want to warn you before you even get to the market for fresh lobster: cold water, hard shell lobsters will not be cheap this weekend.


Here's why.

The Canadian lobster season, which was supposed to open April 30th, has been delayed due to ice and severely cold water.  That's right, that winter that just wouldn't go away still haunts us, all the way into May.  It was so brutal up north that the water temperatures have yet to recover, stunting lobster landings.  This means that the initial start of what many call "lobster season" during the spring and summer months will be slow to start.  Expect prices to reflect this dearth in the marketplace, with live lobsters and freshly cooked lobster meat prices up nearly 30% over last year's numbers.

This is unfortunate news, especially for this special weekend.  Supply just won't meet demand.  Moms are special people, the best in the world, and while lobster season is slow to start, Mother Nature has provided some other delicious spring goodies such as king salmon, black cod, halibut, domestic blue crab, and fresh Carolina shrimp.  Did I mention nothing says "I love you mom" like a delicious Maryland Blue Crab Cake?

Don't Call Them Shrimp

According to some, langoustines are the new sign of luxury when it comes to hard to find ingredients.  According to others, there simply isn't a better tasting animal in the sea.  Whether you view them as a gaudy boast of unnecessary spending or an ideal in nature that great chefs aspire to work with, there are two facts about them on which everyone can agree: they are expensive, especially when fresh, and they are unforgettably delicious, especially when fresh.

Langoustines can be sourced from the northeastern Atlantic Ocean region to the western Mediterranean Sea, though almost every discerning chef acknowledges the best, tastiest specimens are found in the icy waters surrounding the Faroe Islands and Norway.  Some want to group langoustines as either lobsters or crayfish, or some want to say they are a Frankenstein mix of the two, but after eating one it's easy to relent they are none of the above.  The notion to compare langoustines to their crawly cousins stems from their outward appearance.  They are long and slender, with a carapace, head, claws, and tail, and are pink to orange in color.  You only eat the tail, discarding the body, leaving lustful diners wanting more.

In the animal kingdom langoustines live more like paupers than rockstars, feeding on crustaceans and worms and making their homes in the mud.  On the white tablecloth restaurants, however, it is a different story.  There they shine with little adornment, usually a simple butter and twist of lemon are all it takes to make these sweetest of delicacies paint the dinner plate with high art and a triumph of flavor.

Most langoustines are trawl-caught and packed frozen, usually treated to maintain shelf life due to their fragile nature.  One reason langoustines remain expensive even when frozen is due to their uncompromising frailty.  They cannot live long out of water, unlike lobsters and crayfish, as they begin to deteriorate rapidly after dying.  This is most noticeable by their color.  Old langoustines will begin to blacken, usually starting at the head, when they are past their prime for consuming.  During the spring and summer months though, fresh and even live langoustines can be sourced, most often from trap or pot caught North Atlantic areas such as Holland and Norway.  This year BlackSalt Fish Market has found a source to bring fresh langoustines to market, just 2 days from harvest.  They will be offered from time to time, but if you definitely want to get your hands on some, a week notice is best.

Langoustine meat is soft and delicate, silk on the tongue, exposing a transcendent fatty sweetness.  When done right, which often means a chef doing little, fresh langoustines offer a chance at dining bliss.  They are an extravagance of cost and flavor, for sure, but one of those meals you can talk about later with a nostalgic twinkle.  A story perhaps, that you could share with friends at the next lobster or crayfish boil.  

The Crab Inside Your Oyster

If you ever come across an open oyster with a tiny crab-looking critter dwelling comfortably in it, you should eat it.  Though your first thought may be to chuck the oyster and crab and complain to your server that your oyster treat had been invaded and occupied by an unwanted houseguest, avoid the knee-jerk reaction and just consider yourself lucky, one of the chosen few.  Seriously, you have just received one of those rare gifts of nature that not every oyster provides.

The crab that you find wriggling in your oyster is not your typical blue crab.  It's actually a different species entirely.  It's called an oyster crab, or pea crab, and if you speak Latin it goes by the name Zaops Ostreum.  The oyster crab is a tiny animal that is typically found inhabiting oysters harvested from the Chesapeake Bay area.  They range as far south as Brazil, but you won't find any taking residence in oysters from our northern neighbors.  Massachusetts eat your heart out.  It's most often the female crabs that live inside live oysters, feeding on what the oysters eat, while the males are free-swimming wanderers that fend for themselves.  The crabs stunt the oyster's growth, but beyond that live with the oyster in harmony, making a life and reproducing in the oyster until finding themselves under the blade of someone's oyster knife.

To experienced oyster shuckers and gourmands, these small crabs are more than a novelty, they're an absolute delicacy.  The New York Times was reporting on the merits of their flavor as far back as 1913, though today I do not think that many people living in the Chesapeake Bay area even know of their existence.  That's a hard fact to explain since it's the Bay areas oysters in which the crabs call home.  Their flavor has been described as delicate and shrimp-like.  From my own experience I think they taste sweeter than most shrimp, with grassy, mineral notes and a little bit of sea salt.  They offer a nice crunch and a crazy umami flavor, one you might find in a fine broth that took days to make.

Most of the time oyster crabs are removed from the raw oysters by the shucker or chef before they are served to the guest.  I guess it's the industry's way of "protecting" their guests from "undesired" tenants.  The majority of diners wouldn't be too excited to find a tiny, living creature in their freshly shucked oyster.  Two live animals in one shell is two too many.  It's hard to get the word out that these crabs are really delicious.  It's even harder to get people to eat food that is still moving.  Yes, if you had to, you could save the crabs and cook them, but really that's an unnecessary use of energy.  Cooking does nothing to improve on what nature has already provided in this case.  All I know is that I'll take my local oysters with crab, as many as I can get, and consider myself lucky.  This doesn't mean you will be seeing more restaurants leaving the crabs in the oysters.  But now that you know, and if you are lucky enough, it might be a good idea that the next time you settle in at the oyster bar to give the shucker a heads up, that you'll take any oyster found with a crab in it as a packaged deal.