To Skin Or Not To Skin

Seared Onaga

When it comes to the question of whether to leave the skin on a fish fillet before cooking or take it off, the results prove to be very polarizing.  There just doesn't seem to be much middle ground.  The pro-skin eaters (and I am one of them) will reason that this is where the flavor is, where the fatty goodness and omegas hide, especially in salmon.  The non-skin eaters will argue that if the fish has swam in any questionable water ways, the skin is where the pollutants will accumulate.  Even if this would be true though, if you limit your intake to only one or two small servings a week, the benefits would still far outweigh any of the negatives.  Another important factor that I believe will help alleviate any worry stemming from the 'pollution theory' is that there are farmed tasty skin-on fish fillet options in which the species swim in perfectly clean, closed tank operations, such as VA Black Bass, MA Barramundi, and Icelandic Arctic Char.  There are also populations of wild fish such as striped bass (smaller fish are better), Mid-Atlantic tile fish, and North Atlantic black bass that are not known for carrying heavy traces of contaminants.  Once you have sourced healthy fish fillets, it is my recommendation that you try searing them with the skin on, unlocking all the rich flavor and crispy texture that the fish has to offer.  Here are some tips that may help you get that perfect, brown crust on your fish.  This also works with scallops, just reduce the time frame.

First, here are some types of fish that have great tasting skin: red snapper, salmon, black bass, striped bass, bronzino, tilefish, rockfish, dorade, onaga, char, and trout.

1.  Begin by taking your fillets out about 20-30 minutes ahead of time so they can reach room temp.  Sprinkle salt and pepper on the skin side.  Also take out one tblsp of butter if you wish to use it so that it will soften.

2.  Get your pan hot before hand, setting the temp to med-high to high.  Use a cast iron or steel pan for best results.

3.  Pat the fish dry, the entire fillet, with a paper towel to remove moisture.  I have also seen it recommended to use a butter knife to scrape excess moisture.

Crispy Black Bass

3.  Make 2 or 3 scores in the skin to help with keeping the fillet flat, be careful not to cut too deeply.  You will need a sharp knife for this.

4.  Pour oil into the center of the pan.  Let it get hot, but if it starts to smoke remove the pan from the heat until it stops smoking.

5.  Once the pan and oil is hot, place the fish skin side down in the oil.  Move the pan around once the fillet is flat so that the fillet does not stick.  You just want to give it an initial jiggle to prevent sticking.

6.  Season the fish fillet with salt and pepper.  The heat should be on medium-high for thinner fillets, medium for thicker fillets.

7.  Seconds after putting the fillet in the pan you will want to give it a gentle, yet firm press with a fish/metal spatula to keep the fillet flat to the pan.  It will want to curl on you, so be sure to do this quickly and hold it for about 30-45 seconds, or until the fillet relaxes.  You want to keep it flat so that your skin will crisp evenly.

8.  Let the fish cook, depending on the thickness of the fillet, for about 5-8 minutes.  When you see that the sides of the fish are beginning to cook and you can shake the pan and the fillet moves, it is about time to turn the fillet.

9.  Using the spatula, scrape the fillet from the bottom of the pan to dislodge it and gently turn the fillet over so the flesh side is touching the pan.

10.  The flesh side will not take as long to cook usually only about 2-3minutes depending on the thickness.  As soon as the you flip the fish, get your softened tblsp of butter and place it in the hot pan.  As the butter melts, tilt the pan and spoon the melted butter over the fish.  Repeat this process until the fish is entirely cooked.

If you are serving the fish with any sauce, place the sauce under the fish so the skin is not saturated.  You want to serve it immediately, so don't let it sit too long.  And of course, you want to serve it skin facing up, so you can show off your super culinary skills!        

Waiting On Gulf Shrimp Season

The next time you are in the market for wild caught, Gulf brown shrimp you may notice a higher price tag.  Gulf shrimp season has been delayed this year, causing prices to rise as inventories of frozen shrimp are depleted.  Alabama shrimp season partially opened on June 21st, a few weeks later than the usual opening.  Alabama Marine Resources Director Chris Blankenship cited cooler water temperatures and heavy rain as the natural forces that are retarding the growth of shrimp to legal size.  The scene in the Gulf of Mexico, namely Texas, is even worse.  That season will not open until July 15th.  Right now governing agencies are allowing the species to grow to a larger, marketable size in order to prevent waste from throwing undersized shrimp back into the water.

Wild caught, domestic brown shrimp are one of the most sustainable shrimp options in the market, and one of the tastiest.  Other options are not as soundly harvested or as delicious.  Recently, non-domestic, imported farmed shrimp operations have faced allegations of human trafficking and deplorable working conditions for employees.  Unfortunately, in many of these cases, such allegations have proved to be true.  This news has caused many to switch to domestic wild caught shrimp for their dietary needs, putting even more pressure and demand on the industry.  It also doesn't help the situation that Gulf brown shrimp is also one of the tastiest shrimp on the market.  Black Restaurant Group selected this particular species of shrimp as the standard to be offered at each of our restaurants after taste testing several varieties.  Wild brown shrimp offer a crisp texture and distinctly sweet shellfish flavor and are great in many different cooking preparations including sauteing, grilling, and frying.  Even after freezing they remain firm with an assertive, delicious flavor.

There is a silver lining to all of this though.  Delaying the season will allow the shrimp to grow, meaning when harvest really gets going the shrimp should average larger sizes bringing the price down on bigger shrimp.   You won't see these results until the fall though, and for the meantime prices could go even higher.  So be patient and wait out the storm so to speak.  My advice would be to add some inexpensive clams or mussels to your shrimp dish, using a little less shrimp while still getting your fix and keeping your wallet fat.  The worst thing you could do is switch to an imported farm raised shrimp to save a few bucks.  You would not only be supporting a sustainably questionable operation, but also you might find that, while keeping a few dollars in your wallet,
you missed the boat on a lot of flavor.

Crab Report With J.M. Clayton

Where it begins

Recently chefs from Black Restaurant Group took a trip with team members from Congressional Seafood up to Cambridge, MD to visit the oldest operating crab house in the world, J.M. Clayton Seafood Company.  That's right, the oldest crab processor in the world is right here in our backyard.  It was eye-opening to be able to take a trip right off the docks into the Choptank River and observe a timeless sight; a Maryland crabber running his trot line seeking out the elusive and world-renowned Chesapeake Blue Crab.

This ancient profession has been in operation for centuries and the equipment hasn't really changed all that much.  All you need is a line, a couple of buoys, some good bait, and a lot of patience and a strong back.  The best crabbers don't miss a beat, or a crab, while running their line and grading for size and quality.  After working the morning and most of the day the crabbers pull their boats right up to the docks at Clayton to sell their catch.  Clayton processes around 30,000 lbs of crab a day, though lately the harvest numbers have been down.  This can explain why MD crab meat prices have not matched lows from last year.  Most people blame the cool water temperatures and the relatively late spring and summer.  The particular crabber we followed only came back with 4 bushels, not enough to supply a busy restaurant's weekend crab meat needs.

Hard at Work

At Clayton the crabs are cooked in massive steamers, holding up to 12 bushels at a time, and then hand picked by employees with impressive speed and amazing preciseness.  The picking room was the lynchpin of the operation.  Mostly women, they picked at record speeds with such accuracy that if you blinked you could miss an entire crab being processed.  Some of the employees had been there for over 50 years, their nimble fingers moving with a dexterity that would prove impossible for persons a quarter of their age.  The meat is separated by jumbo and lump sizes and the claws are cracked separately.  The remaining shell and fat are processed into a "bater" meat, great for adding flavor to a variety of dishes.

The most telling indicator of quality was the sweet, clean flavor of the crabmeat we sampled.  It doesn't get any better than eating crab right out of the water and with Clayton crab meat that is exactly what you are getting.  From water, to dock, to steamer, to picker, to purchase, the chain is unadulterated and totally traceable.  The facility is ancient, but top notch and very clean.  The crabs go directly from the water to the steamer, and then are picked clean by some of the most skilled professionals I have ever witnessed.  What you get when you buy crab meat like this is an industry standard that has stood the test of time.  Maryland crab at its finest.  For more history on J.M. Clayton visit HERE.

Huge Steamers

The Prize!

   

King Salmon Not Showing

The Copper River has shut down the harvest of king salmon.  The Yukon will most likely not open at all this year.  The Kenai River count is one-fifth of what it was last year at this time.  In the Deshka River authorities have spotted 1,683 kings as of Wednesday, as compared with the 20,000 that passed a decade ago during the same period.  It is evident that 2013 will not be a boom year for king (chinook) salmon.

30lb Chinook from Columbia River

Several scientists are offering different reasons for the decline in returning fish.  Some blame the commercial pollack fishery, some blame mother nature and late spring weather, others are pointing to the fish's changing ocean habits.  It may not be all doom and gloom though, if we l
ook at the history of the matter.  According to research extreme fluctuations in populations and returns of several varieties of fish, including salmon, have always existed.  There is sediment evidence in river beds going back 500 years that not every salmon class returned in strong numbers.  There is evidence of several year periods where hundreds of thousands of salmon returned, followed by periods where only tens of thousands of fish returned.  These drastic fluctuations existed before commercial harvesting.

For the Copper River to retain a healthy population, at least 24,000 kings must make it upriver to spawn.  To ensure this happens they have shut down the season.  Other rivers will see early closures or in some cases, will not open at all.  Some rivers may be able to harvest throughout the season without restraint.  It is a little early to begin pointing fingers, especially when verifiable proof does not seem to be evident.  For now, I am inclined to believe that we are part of a cyclic fluctuation.  A robust population is just one aspect of a sustainable population.  Management is another.  So far the Pacific Wild Salmon Industry has lived up to its reputation by doing the right thing and letting the fish go upriver to spawn, business be damned.  Diligence is required if we are to ensure the health of wild fish populations; if we are to err, it is best to err on the side of the fish.  They are much more valuable swimming upriver next year than they are served on our plates this year.

The Perfect Protein

CEO of Oceana Andy Sharpless recently published an intriguing, informative seafood book titled The Perfect Protein.  I want to highlight his work and encourage seafood novices and enthusiasts alike to pick up a copy.  The work examines our historical links to the ocean and how our evolution is intertwined with seafood consumption.

The health benefits of consuming seafood over other land-based proteins is scientifically drawn out to a point where I believe that you can't help but change your eating habits after reading this book.  The book also goes to great links to explain how we have wasted and continue to degrade the bounty the ocean has to offer.  Anecdotal stories are dovetailed with tragic realities that bring the reader full circle, from boom to bust, of how our relationship with the ocean has changed from unknown abyss to seafood buffet.  He leaves hope for the future though. If we can realize that with good stewardship we can balance our growing hunger harmoniously with wild fish and shellfish stocks, there will be no need to starve the ocean.  He offers a simple solution for harvesting conscientiously and intelligently: "It is apparent in fishery data around the world.  It just requires three commonsense principles of good ocean management: 1. Protect the habitats that foster ocean life.  2. Reduce the scourge of bycatch.  3. Set quotas based on science, not the fishing industry's bottom line."   

The idea is simple enough, now if the world's Nations would just catch on and implement I believe that the global goal of a healthy, productive ocean is attainable.  Reading this book will force you to think about seafood not as dietary supplement, but as an ancient necessity that has shaped who we are and how far we have come.  We are linked to the ocean by more than our stomachs.  It is a life-blood, an indispensable, renewable, resilient resource for so many of the world's species, including our own.  Our place in the food chain does not give us the right to break or alter that chain.  We must learn to become good stewards, responsible links in the chain, because the continued destruction of the ocean and its inhabitants only hastens our own collapse.

Why Are Salmon Prices Rising

Farmed Salmon prices are nearly 50% higher this year than last.  Right now the high costs are holding steady and show no signs of receding.  Fortunately the wild salmon season is open in the Pacific, so there are healthy, alternative options for salmon lovers, but wild fish prices are consistently higher than farmed salmon.  So why are farmed prices so out of whack this year?  This ARTICLE from the UK can shed some light on the subject.

Though the article addresses UK grocers, the same issues affect U.S. stores and supplies.  Feed prices have risen and the costs of producing salmon have never been higher.  Colder waters have crippled both Norwegian and Canadian production, causing a lack of fish ready for harvest.  Canadian farms have also battled ISA and other outbreaks and many fish have been culled.  Chilean production has been dealing with similar issues, forcing global production into a bit of a hole.  I talk to many suppliers and all say the same thing: "I have never seen salmon prices this high and I have no clue when the prices will break."  With so many wild options available, it does not seem to be too big of an issue at the moment.  Wild fish are usually better for you and are a sustainable option.  But if things do not get better soon, it could be a difficult fall and winter for Atlantic salmon enthusiasts.  Quality farmed salmon will be available, I'm just not sure at what price.

Cleaning Soft Shell Crabs

Where to Start

I was recently talking to a seafood novice about soft shell crabs - about how wonderful they are and how easy they are to cook, "just fry 'em up" was their motto - and a question came up whose answer I had always taken for granted.  They asked me after some thought, "well, how do you actually clean them?"  Working with crabs for over 10 years, I have put in many hours of 'cleaning' soft shells that it never occurred to me that it wasn't so commonplace outside the seafood world.

Some seafood markets will clean the soft shells for you, BlackSalt always offers it's guests the option for no extra charge, and what you get when this happens is a prepped soft shell crab missing a few parts and ready for the pan.  Now, if you are a do-it-yourself type and want to learn how to clean soft shells, here's a quick how-to that will allow you to purchase soft shells live and clean them at home.

 

Take off the eyes and mouth

First thing you are going to need is a pair of scissors.  Place the soft shell in your hand upright.  Cut off the face with a thin snip being sure not to take off too much.  You just want to take the eyes and mouth off.  Take the tips of the scissors and puncture the bubble that appears in the hole that is left from the cut you just made.  You want to puncture this bubble so it does not burst when you are cooking, sending an undesirable splatter in your pan.  Next, you want to lift the carapace at the points on either side.  Underneath you will find what many call the 'dead fins'.  These could potentially cause you trouble if ingested, they are not tasty, so they must be removed from both sides of the crab.  Holding the scissors flat against the body, trim the translucent looking fins.  They will resemble translucent feathers and rest on top of the body - desirable meat - of the crab.  They are located under the points of the crab, which jut out on either side.  Finally, flip your crab over and cut off the apron flap.  This will either be shaped like a broad triangle (female) or a golf tee (male).  Pull the flap up from the body and snip it off.

Burst the bubble

That's it, your crab is ready to be seasoned and cooked.  It's really not a difficult process and only takes a few seconds.  The incredible thing is that most of the crab is usable and there is little waste.  The next time you are shopping for softies, try taking them home and holding your own tutorial with your guests.  It will add a little excitement to your party and put you all a little closer to your food.  I find food always taste better the more you know about it and the more you actually handle it.  

Remove the 'dead fins'

Take off the apron

Ready to cook!