Sea Lice in Ireland, Not a Problem?

The seafood business is ever evolving, ever changing.  Information gets updated, thrown away, revisited, proven and disproven on what seems like a weekly basis.  It's hard to keep up with what's fact and what was just yesterday's headline.  Adding to the confusion are the plethora of groups publishing 'facts' about what seafood is safe to eat, what is good for the environment and what is bad.  Bad press sells, especially when it comes to farmed seafood.  Oftentimes the public will take what is stated in print - be it over-zealous or questionably influenced - as the final answer.  With all the studies out there, the fact that the people publishing these articles are supported and influenced by outside parties with hidden agendas gets lost sometimes.  Whenever I research a seafood related subject, I try to glean information from as many reputable sources as I can.  I even read through some of the non-reputable sources, just to get the full picture.  I usually begin my search with government associated agencies, such as NOAA, and end with third party audits and those associated closely to the source, such as fishermen.

A recent article published in the Journal of Fish Diseases here , got me thinking about what is considered common knowledge, how it became that way, and what it means for the future of the seafood business.  The article presents a study done in Ireland by the Marine Institute that suggests sea lice infestation from salmon farms may not have as negative or encompassing effect on wild salmon stocks as was once thought.  Sea lice are marine parasites that occur naturally on many wild fish but are notoriously associated with salmon farms.  It is believed by many that the infestation of salmon farms by sea lice pose significant threats to surrounding wild salmon populations.  Just a few sea lice can kill young wild salmon fry.  If you do an Internet search for "sea lice and salmon farms" you will find that the two are associated with the mortality of wild salmon.  However, this recent study makes claims that previous investigations were flawed in their design and that what was once held as common knowledge, now, under closer scientific inspection, does not appear to be the truth.  The experiment highlighted in the article makes a claim that sea lice affect less than 1% of wild salmon stocks and are not a significant detriment to the wild salmon population in Ireland.  Norway did a similar study and found similar results.  

So, who do we believe? Who do we listen to?  Is this report a clearer view of what's happening?  Are sea lice in Canada responsible for the deaths of thousands of wild salmon and one of the major reasons wild salmon stocks there have declined?  The purpose of this post is not to answer that question, but to highlight the fact that common knowledge is not always the truth, it's just common.  That could be because previous studies were flawed or they were influenced by the private interests of invested parties, or the science was just outdated, in any case it's always important to question our sources and their motives.  So, I am just presenting another article that just happens to fly in the face of common beliefs shared by anti-farmed salmon lobbyists.  It's just another piece of this puzzle that we are trying to put together to get a clearer view of what it means to eat informed.      

Don't Hold The Anchovies

You will not find anchovies listed on the Monterey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Watch and it is very hard to tie down a 'color', whether it be good (green) or bad (red), to the fishery.  Maybe its because the fishery has been known to fluctuate from year to year without any warning.  Maybe its because the fishery has collapsed in many places only to rebound with astounding productivity.  It is even difficult to talk about the anchovy 'fishery' because there are many different areas with differentiating populations, some healthy and some not so much.  Wherever they come from, anchovies make for a healthy, tasty meal, and are invaluable as a food source for other animals.  Most of the catch goes into making other items such as fish oil, fertilizers, and fish meal.  A smaller percentage of the catch is produced for human consumption, which is unfortunate because they really are one of the healthiest 'brain' foods you can eat.

Anchovies are low in mercury and other toxins that exist in the environment due to the fact that they eat very low on the food chain.  They are extremely good sources of omega-3's, calcium, iron, niacin, and the very important selenium.  Basically, the perfect protein.  Most options in the market are going to be fillets packed in vinegar or oil, but occasionally you will find fresh anchovies.  If these are available, jump on them.  There really is no fish out there that packs as much flavor as fresh anchovies.  They are great fried and eaten whole, head and all.  You have to trust me on this, its like eating a salty, savory explosion of ocean goodness.  If you are not so adventurous, try de-boning them with your fingers, the flesh is very delicate so you will not need a knife, and baking or panfrying them with butter and garlic, finishing with fresh herbs and lemon.  The canned and jarred varieties are great on salads and make great additions to sauces (worcestershire sauce is made from anchovies), or can be enjoyed on their own if they are of a high quality.  Just add some cheese and bread and you have a great snack or dinner.

Now that you are dying for some anchovies, lets talk about which fisheries you should be buying from. In 2005 the Bay of Biscay fishery collapsed, only to rebound and rethink their efforts in 2010.  Five years of patience resulted in a turnaround for the fishery and today the anchovy population is healthy and considered sustainable by the MSC.  Argentine anchovies are MSC certified, a good indicator that you are buying a sustainable product.  The Peruvian fishery is one of the largest fisheries in the world.  Water temperatures can result in down years and overfishing has been an issue in the past, but today the fishery is working towards sustainability and populations are stable.  It seems the Peruvians understand what an important resource they have.  Moroccan and Croatian anchovies are not MSC certified, but many independent audits such as Friends of the Sea list those fisheries as sustainable.  Our own North Atlantic and Pacific stocks are healthy and at sustainable levels according to NOAA and other audits.  By-catch is not a major issue for the anchovy fishery due to the fact that trawlers identify large shoals and target their intended species with minimum by-catch.

With educated eating comes healthy eating.  There are plenty of sources to choose from, so finding ocean friendly anchovies should not be an issue.  They are a super food, so there are no health concerns associated with eating anchovies.  So, what's holding you back from partaking in quite possibly the ultimate protein that millions of other fish feed on?  Millions of other fish can't be wrong, can they?  I am not advocating an all anchovy diet, we need to save some for our fish friends in the sea.  What I am advocating is the next time you try a caesar salad, don't be so quick to 'hold' the anchovies.  Julius knew what he was doing when he put them on there.

Scallops 101

The scallop market is about to take a big jump.  Word is that quotas are going to be cut up to 35% in some areas.  What this means is that it is going to get even harder to find high quality dry scallops.  What exactly a 'dry' scallop is, as opposed to divers, refresh, or treated, needs to be addressed first.

There are many different products at all kinds of prices available in the scallop market.  We at BlackSalt buy true dry scallops for our market and restaurants.  A dry scallop is a scallop that has never been frozen and has never been treated.  However, it is legal to sell a 'dry' scallop that has been treated with a saline solution and still call it 'dry' if it has been in the solution less than 24 hours.  The saline solution helps preserve the scallop and also adds water weight to the product.

We do not purchase these scallops at BlackSalt, but instead we look for true dry scallops only caught by day-boats like The Sea Ranger, whose captain is Ger Tonneson.  These scallops are landed in places like Maine and Massachusetts and come to us just hours out of the water.  What day-boat means is that these fishermen are allotted only so many pounds a day and once they hit that quota they return from the water with their harvest the same day that they set out.  This ensures that the scallops we purchase are the freshest product possible.  We pay a little more for this product, but we feel like the quality that is passed on to the customer is worth it.  When purchasing scallops that are labeled 'dry' it might be beneficial to ask whether there is a 24hr treatment on them, or just shop at BlackSalt where you don't have to ask.

Some scallops are packed treated or refreshed.  Treated scallops have a solution on them that increases shelf-life.  This is important for retailers, because the shelf-life on truly dry scallops is very short.  That is why rotation of product at our market is quick; truly dry scallops need to be fresh.  Other markets that sell treated scallops do not have to worry about turnover as much but, in my opinion, you can taste the difference.  A refreshed scallop is a product that has been frozen and then thawed.  Usually the flavor on these will be even less bright than treated or dry scallops and the color is usually a little grayish.  I can't in good faith recommend this product to anyone.  Truly dry scallops will have a fresh, sweet, ocean flavor without any lingering aftertaste.  A truly dry scallop will also give you a nice sear on a hot pan very quickly, where it takes a treated or 'dry' scallop a little longer to get that crispy brown, and in some cases it doesn't happen at all.

Sometimes you may see scallops that are pink or orange.  These to me taste the sweetest and should not be avoided.  The theory is that these scallops were females with red roe sacs.  The different color signals a sweeter scallop.  Stay away from scallops that appear gray, this is a sign of age and freezing.  Scallops naturally release gas so if you come across scallops that have been in a container and the first odor is of gas, do not send them packing into the garbage.  Give them a little air and time and that should go away.  When scallops smell sour or overly gassy, then its time to give up on them and look for new product.  Also, look to purchase scallops that are not broken and greasy.  Fresh scallops should be firm and a little tacky to the touch.

Wherever you decide to purchase scallops, make sure to check them out thoroughly and ask questions.  Scallops are always a good indicator of the quality of the market you are shopping in: the more questions that the fishmonger can answer and more pride they take in answering them, the better the market.

Copper Shoals keeps Red Drum Afloat

In the 70's and 80's the popularity of Paul Prudhomme's blackened redfish dish almost wiped out the native red drum from the coastal waters of Texas and Louisiana.  It was so popular that redfish, formally known as red drum, was listed as a protected species and during this time commercial sell was outlawed.  These restrictions have since eased due to the resurgence of red drum stocks, but it was aquaculture that really emerged as a winning solution to the tasty fish's high demand.  During the same time of the wild redfish restrictions, biologist David Maus built the first commercial redfish farm in Palacios, TX.  Today Palacios is the home of Copper Shoals, a leader in domestic, sustainable red drum aquaculture.

Copper Shoals grows fish from fingerlings to market size without the use of hormones or antibiotics.  The feed comprises of natural grains, vitamins, minerals, and fish protein from well-managed sources.  There is also the added plus that Copper Shoals produces fish free of mercury and other pollutants.  The farms are land based, which reduces the problem of escapees.  Water for the fish is provided by Matagorda Bay and saline aquifiers and is monitored around the clock to ensure that quality is never compromised.  The fish are fresh killed, chilled and sent out to order.  This means that our red drum are delivered to us just hours out of the water.

It's always good to support local fishermen and farmers, especially ones that produce a quality product with an environmental consciousness.  The farmed red drum in Texas come with a sweet, mild flavor and a dense, flaky texture.  They are deliciously healthy and incredibly savory, especially when prepared by Pearl Dive Restaurant, where they are a staple on the menu.  

Sweet Shrimp Won't Be Home For Christmas

Every year from the cold waters of New England we expect to see those tiny, tasty, and affordable sweet red shrimp decorating markets and menus up and down the East Coast.  Boat loads of the glowing shrimp enter the market flashing their freshness like Christmas tree bulbs and they are so fresh you can eat them raw.  Unfortunately this year we most likely will not have any sweet shrimp to speak of, due to environmental conditions, namely higher ocean temperatures.  The bio-mas is just too low and scientists are worried that a normal season could spell major problems for the shrimp.  In the article posted Here it is explained that the season will not begin until after the holiday, much later than the usual December start.  The quota will be shortened also.  All of these measures are to ensure that the fishery remains sustainable and the shrimp population is given time to recover.  It is very sad in a way, we won't be having those tasty shrimp on our plates anytime soon.  In another way it is a clear sign that we are beginning to understand the importance of protecting our natural resources by implementing harsh restrictions.  Not fifty years ago I believe that these warning signs would have gone ignored.  It gives me hope for all U.S. fisheries when we can collectively decide to sacrifice a season for a species.

Mislabeling Continues

I wanted to share an article about mislabeling seafood in the U.S. and to remind everyone that it continues to be an issue.  In the article posted here, MA restaurants continue to have problems with menu descriptions matching actual product.  Do not be fooled however, this is not a Massachusetts issue.  This is a seafood issue, one that affects every restaurant and market in the United States.  I am 100% sure that mislabeling is occurring in more states than one.  I am not trying to say we have an epidemic on our hands, but I am stating that we have a problem that has not disappeared from our dining tables.

Salesmanship and creative labeling are ingrained into the seafood industry.  Many wild fish are migratory and different areas have different names for the same fish.   A striped bass is a rockfish.  A sable is a black cod.  A wreckfish is a stone bass.  A fluke is a flounder and in some cases a flounder is a sole, be it grey or lemon.  As information becomes more transparent and diners are eager to ascertain more and more information about what they put into their bodies, I feel as though the industry has an obligation to deliver to its customers what they demand; the truth.  The fear of many businesses I believe is that some fish just won't sale under their real label because of a negative perception in the community or customer unfamiliarity.  The problem is, if you never give people a chance by telling them the truth and educating them about product, then the sale is going to be lost before it ever hits the table.

There are so many underutilized species out there that are healthy and sustainable.  There should be no reason to disguise them for more popular items.  And if you are disguising inferior product in order to increase your bottom line, well then I hope this article awakens you to the fact that your time in this industry is limited.  If you wish to avoid being duped as a customer, I recommend getting to know the people that sell you seafood.  Build relationships with them by asking questions about product.  Check out their operation, do they buy whole fish?  Do they offer information about their products?  Is their operation clean?  Money is a representation of resource and resources are limited.  Value getting what you pay for, and that makes the truth an invaluable asset.    

Who's Got Sole

Poinsettias decorate grocery stores everywhere.  Street lamps are joined by wreaths and star shaped ornaments lighting your way home.  There are lines and tents outside shopping malls that seem to stretch on for maddeningly long blocks, filled with anxiety and helplessly blank stares.  Shopping has become a contact sport, and only the prepared survive.  Yep, it's the holiday season, and we are all subject to the season's greetings.  In a quieter corner of the tinsel wrapped world is the fish market, though, we too have our holiday specialities that seem to come around only a few times a year, like homemade cookies and peanut brittle.

Fresh Whole Dover Sole

One of the highlights of the holiday season is the reemergence of the Dover Sole from scarcity during its summer hiatus.  True Dover Sole, and there are many impostors, is shipped from Holland to the U.S. weekly year round.  However, prices usually come down to this stratosphere only during the winter months when catch is good.  Do not expect to get the real thing for any deal though, most dover sole is sold by the pound whole for much more than many of the other species fillets go for.  So why are the prices so high, what's the big deal?  Let's take a snapshot look at the real thing and learn how we can avoid being duped by a west coast alias.

True dover sole, species name solea solea, is in big demand for it's exquisite flavor and delicate texture.  The demand is one reason for its high price, the fact that it is imported from one place is another.  Fresh dover sole is landed by trawlers in the North Sea and is found in waters as deep as 1000 meters.  They are usually harvested around 5 to 8 years of age, but can grow to live up to 45 years.  The flesh has an exceptional density, with tightly packed flakes that are amazingly juicy.  The aroma when cooked can remind you of savory bacon and the flavor has a hazelnut sweetness.  There is a buttery richness and mouthfeel to the fillet, with an ocean depth that dissipates slowly in the taste.  The texture of the dover is unmatched by any of the other inferior flat fish.

So how do we tell that we are getting the real thing, when there are so many selling their soles?  You could just come to BlackSalt where we get the whole fish shipped to us once a week.  Besides that, there are clues that can help you determine which sole you are looking at.  The price is the first indicator that something may be off.  Even frozen dover sole is still pricey.  The way to spot the difference in frozen or fresh sole is to look at the color.  Is it faded?  Is it dry?  If so, then it is most likely previously frozen.  Fresh Dover sole have a beige to brown top side and their eyes face to the right.  The under belly should be glistening, bright white, with no marks or contusions.  The fillets of sole should be noticeably plump for their size and the flake pattern should be woven very tightly.  To translate, the fillets should be firm and hold together well with no breakage, with tiny almost indiscernible flakes that appear as tight as chain metal.  Most dover sole will be sold as whole fish.  There is a fish that is labeled dover sole that is sold in fish markets coming from the west coast.  These are not true dover soles, they are a completely different species and are quite inferior.  I believe they are marketed as dovers to help increase their sales.  Other 'soles' on the market, such as lemon and grey, are actually flounders and are also completely different species.

Notice the fat, white bellies on the underside and rounded head.

Dover sole is an indulgence, an experience.  They epitomize the holiday spirit.  A time for giving, a time for receiving and a time for indulging in the things that make us happy, dover sole is the nicely wrapped, super fun toy for our taste buds.  It's the G.I. Joe and Barbie for all of us grown-ups.  I recommend sauteing yours in butter and preparing it as a whole fish.  Beware of the steals you might see in the market, I would hate for you to end up with the knock-off.  We've all been there, when excitement turns to disappointment because expectations are met with bitter reality.  The holidays are when we leave a little fat on the pork chop to get that good flavor, so make sure if you are indulging in the dover, that it's the true sole.